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Tourists make way back to Kashmir
SRINAGAR, India (Reuters) -- Rajni Patil waited 16 years to see what poets
have described as "paradise on earth."
"It is a dream come true," gushed the 45-year-old housewife from central
India, standing on the banks of Srinagar's Dal lake in the Himalayan valley of
Kashmir.
"After a long wait I am finally in Kashmir."
Plagued by a brutal conflict since 1989, Kashmir is opening to tourists as
fighting subsides between India and Pakistan over the disputed region amid a
delicate peace process.
Behind Patil and her husband, on a lake ringed by snow-capped mountains,
tourists glide by on small boats known as "shikaras." Hundreds of hand-carved
pinewood houseboats dot the water.
"People in India and abroad have a wrong notion about this piece of heaven
that it is not safe. I feel it is safer than Indore," said Patil, referring to
her home city in India.
About 186,670 tourists, mostly from other parts of northern India, visited
Kashmir in the first five months of this year, compared with 98,613 in the
same period last year, tourism officials said.
Kashmir was once a top Asian tourism destination, popular among honeymooners,
skiers, trekkers and anglers, and attracting about a million tourists a year
until 1989, when simmering anger against New Delhi's rule burst into a violent
rebellion
Tourism withered. Houseboat owners and hoteliers took to the streets begging
during an insurgency that killed 45,000 people.
"We hope God has pitied us and good days are ahead. If the peace process
continues, Kashmir will be flooded (with tourists)," said Ali Mohammad, a
houseboat owner in his office near the rubble of Kashmir's main tourist
reception centre.
"My houseboat is booked for the next three months."
His centre was stormed by separatist rebels on April 6, a day before a
historic bus service was scheduled to begin between the Indian and Pakistani
parts of Kashmir.
Switzerland of the east
Violence has eased in Jammu and Kashmir, India's only Muslim-majority state,
since New Delhi and Islamabad started a peace process more than 18 months ago,
but people are still being killed in regular gunbattles, occasional bomb
blasts and attacks.
"I hope improving relations between India and Pakistan will boost tourism in
Kashmir," said Ghulam Hassan Mir, Kashmir's tourism minister.As tourism slowly revives, authorities have moved more than 800 soldiers out
of seven hotels that became security camps near Dal Lake during the fighting.
Many more hotels remain occupied by soldiers and other security agencies.
"I decided several times to visit Kashmir but violence always scared me.
Things are far better here than we have heard," said Sanjeev Mahjan, a
55-year-old doctor.
Mehbooba Mufti, chief of Kashmir's ruling People's Democratic Party, is
cautiously optimistic peace will hold and the tourists will return.
"Our progress up to this point has also been fraught with numerous odds ...
What looked impossible yesterday is beginning to look as near-certainty
today," she said from her heavily guarded house. "The thaw has just set in."
Kashmir whispers of rediscovered appeal: Official warnings about the risks of
certain destinations against their intrinsic appeal
Kashmir by Fiona Dunlop
Financial Times, August 02,
2005 03:15 PM
Given the choice of a holiday in Madrid or in Srinagar in Kashmir, northern
India, which would you go for? Quite probably you would be tempted by the
latter for its scenic splendour. Yet if you were in Britain, say, your first
step might be to consult the Foreign Office advisory website, and you would
change your mind rather fast. There in black and white, with all the authority
of the Foreign Office behind them, are the words, "We strongly advise against
all travel to Jammu and Kashmir." All is a very definite word and, despite a
qualification for Ladakh, this first line of advice in the 'India' section
feels like a blanket prohibition. So, regretfully, you change your mind and
opt for Madrid. There you will undoubtedly have a fabulous time - the new
Prado extension, a spot of retail therapy and the odd tapas bar. You won't be
alone. Madrid is a perennial favourite for northern Europeans and Americans of
all ages. But somehow the image of Kashmir and its legendary lake lingers. Did
you make the right decision?
Given the choice of a holiday in Madrid or in Srinagar in Kashmir, northern
India, which would you go for? Quite probably you would be tempted by the
latter for its scenic splendour. Yet if you were in Britain, say, your first
step might be to consult the Foreign Office advisory website, and you would
change your mind rather fast. There in black and white, with all the authority
of the Foreign Office behind them, are the words, "We strongly advise against
all travel to Jammu and Kashmir." All is a very definite word and, despite a
qualification for Ladakh, this first line of advice in the 'India' section
feels like a blanket prohibition. So, regretfully, you change your mind and
opt for Madrid. There you will undoubtedly have a fabulous time - the new Prado extension, a spot of retail therapy and the odd tapas bar. You won't be
alone. Madrid is a perennial favourite for northern Europeans and Americans of
all ages. But somehow the image of Kashmir and its legendary lake lingers. Did
you make the right decision?
With the high profile of terrorism in our post 9/11 (and now post 7/7) era,
holidaymakers want to feel confident about their chosen destination. The
consistency of the FO advice is debateable. Does it help or inadvertently
contribute to the vicious circle of terrorism by keeping certain places out of
bounds - and, therefore, a large chunk of their population out of work
(Kashmir, for example)? And, conversely, is it skating over the reality of
more familiar countries such as Spain, a fellow member of the European Union?
For, despite detailing recent bomb incidents, FO advice here non-committally
states: "There is a continued threat from terrorism in Spain." But more than
one year on from India and Pakistan's first round of cricket diplomacy, why
should the lake paradise of Srinagar be more threatening than Madrid?
The FO says: "Our advice is regularly updated and we try to keep it as
consistent as possible. Information comes from various sources - it's not done
lightly and is reviewed all the time." When asked about Spain, the reply is:
"Western European facilities are different." In contrast, neither
Kashmir/India nor Spain nor London figures among the US State Department's
specific travel warnings on its website, although the situation in Kashmir is
clearly outlined.
Two decades ago, Kashmiri houseboat-owners rubbed their hands every spring at
the prospect of the annual influx of tourists. From May to October, the
hyacinth-choked waters of Dal Lake saw flotillas of vividly painted shikaras
carrying Indian families, boho westerners, young travellers and wide-eyed
Japanese. Carpet-sellers honed their skills, as did purveyors of anything
remotely embroidered while the houseboats initiated by the British Raj
provided unusual accomodation. The economy boomed.
Then, in 1989, separatist and Islamist militancy struck and everything
changed. Hindus and countless Kashmiri business people bolted, at least 35,000
people were killed in a decade, the lake stagnated and the houseboats rotted.
Any foreigners venturing there risked their lives - proved in 1995 when five
young Europeans were kidnapped and murdered. The outlook was grim.
When a particular destination is thrown into socio-geographical purdah,
however, the dangers inevitably escalate since terrorism thrives on ignorance.
Kashmir can still be dangerous, demonstrated by last summer's attack on a
mountain resort hotel that left several Indian tourists dead. Since then, car
bombs have left fatalities (usually military) but the temperature is changing
fast. Go to Srinagar today and you will be amazed - tourism is booming. Over
the past two years, visitors from the rest of the subcontinent increased
dramatically and, although foreigners still scratch the statistical surface
with just 12,000 visitors last year, this figure has nonetheless quadrupled.
Despite the high-profile presence of the Indian Army, of rifles poking between
sandbags, of soldiers brewing chai, of nocturnal road checks and of the odd
gun-toting boatload speeding across the lake, Srinagar is visibly alive and
well. Intrepid gap-year travellers check their e-mails at internet cafes,
haggle over a leather jacket, then practise boating on
the Nagin Lake. Multi-generational Indian families, both Hindu and Muslim,
revel in the waterfalls businessmen from Delhi or Mumbai swing their
golf-clubs at a spanking new lakeside course designed by Robert Trent Jones.
Their wives trail excited broods as they shop till they drop, then the entire
family is punted back through the floating gardens to their houseboat.
Finally, the car horns and bicycle bells are silenced, the nightsky sparkles
above the silhouette ofthe Himalayas, sleep descends andDal Lake's magic
reverberates.Does this really reflect the "high threat of terrorism"?
Last April saw a long-awaited, "confidence-building measure" between India and
Pakistan: the resumed bus service between the two halves of Kashmir. A raid on
Srinagar's passenger terminus and a volley of grenades resulted in the death
of two militants, yet the journey went ahead. As a symbol of rapprochement, it
was a success, further evidence of the determination to end the years of
tragedy in this beautiful land. Soon after came the announcement of an
ambitious rail link between Kashmir and India, to be completed by 2007.
Kashmiris may have missed out on 15 years of development, including the entire
internet age, but you can rely on these astute business people to catch up
fast - some houseboats are even installing wi-fi networks.
Back in Spain, tourist facilities certainly are hard to fault. Last year, 54
million tourists poured into this land of sun, sea, sand and sierra, most of
them blissfully ignorant of any danger. Yet in March 2004 al-Qaeda made its
strike on Madrid. Spain's biggest ongoing threat emanates not from al-Qaeda
but from ETA, the separatist group. But who thinks of this when hopping on a
cheap flight to Barcelona or Granada, or planning a gastronomic weekend in San
Sebastian? Spain has been such a popular, easily accessible destination for
decades that nobody hesitates before grabbing their euros and heading for the
airport. Rightly so, as the likelihood of being an ETA target is very, very
small.
The travel pages of our newspapers and glossies constantly tout the latest "go
there before it's too late" paradise. In turn, each one awakes, Rip Van
Winkle-like, from years of isolation imposed by civil war or totalitarian
regimes, thirsting for the bounty generated by tourism. We have witnessed this
in Vietnam, Cuba, South Africa and, more recently, Sri Lanka and Mozambique,
with Burma waiting in the wings for regime change.
So is it not time those wily carpet-sellers of Dal Lake were given another
chance? I merely whisper the mantra "Go there before it's too late" because
the Indians have already made their choice.
Fiona Dunlop travelled to Kashmir as a guest of Indus Tours Travel, tel: +44
(0)20 8901 7320 www.industours.co.uk and the Jammu Kashmir Department of
Tourism Foreign Office advisory website: www.fco.gov.uk
Kashmir - a hidden tourist treasure
Gulmarg, Dec 25: Decades after he stunted over the lush green slopes of
Gulmarg, Bollywood actor Sanjay Khan prepares to play host in
this world famous tourist destination. Khan is keen to setup a multi-star
lodge besides other tourist attractions here and elsewhere in Valley.
Spelling out his plans, Khan termed Kashmir as the “treasure of potential
for Tourism industry” and said he was ready to invest, “provided people and
government co-operates.”
“Definitely we will invest here if… things mature,” the yesteryear Bollywood
actor who also runs a swanky hotel, Golden Palms in Bangalore said while
talking to reporters during the sidelights of a function here.
Lauding the scenic beauty of the dale, Khan said the people from outside
state were ready for investments to generate employment and to bring
“happiness back to the Valley.”
“People like me from outside will like to develop hotels, tourist resorts
and other specialties. I think it will bring lots of happiness and job
opportunities for the people.”
Khan, who has come to the Valley on chief minister Ghulam Nabi Azad’s
invitation to see the potential of the tourist industry in the state said,
the beauty of Kashmir was a hidden treasure for tourism that needs to be
explored with joint co-operation.
“Kashmir is sitting on a treasure that needs to be explored, for which the
main thing is the efforts of the people. Our job is to help them…. But this
all needs co-operation from the government,” Khan donning a brown blazer
black specks, said.
Later talking to Greater Kashmir, he said for the development of the
industry, government needs to give a facelift to tourist destinations.
“From government side better road connectivity and other facilities are
required.”
Given the potential of tourism industry in Kashmir, Khan perceived that
presently it was getting only a fraction of its share.
“Kashmir is not getting even one per cent of its potential, what it could
have been there.”
Commenting over the scenic beauty of the Gulmarg, he said it could be
developed into a “world-class-resort.”
“It can be better than Switzerland…we only need to give it a new look.”
On this, he suggested that swanky hotels should be constructed and worn out
buildings removed.
The director and actor of the mega TV Serial, The Sword of Tipu Sultan also
expressed his willingness to provide assistance to the tourism department
provided they need it.
Moreover, Khan expressed a need for the global publicity of tourism industry
in Kashmir. “Kashmiris need to create a brand image for which publicity is
needed internationally.”
INDIA
WHEN NEWS CAME THROUGH EARLIER THIS YEAR THAT THE STUNNINGLY PICTURESQUE
VALLEY OF KASHMIR WAS INCHING TOWARDS PEACE , VICTORIA SCHOFIELDS
BEAUTY BEYOND THE BARBED WIRE…….
All calm now ,” the boatman said , as my husband I and our three teenage
children clambered aboard his bobbing shikara to go across Dal Lake, Srinagar,
in the valley of Kashmir. He was not referring to the storms that had confined
us to our houseboat for a day , but to what all Kashmir he was not referring
to the storms that had confined us to our houseboat for a day , but to what
all Kashmiri’s call” the trouble “-the militant insurgency against the Indian
government’s control of the state , which has raged in the valley for more
than 15 years and virtually destroyed the tourist industry.
With calm apparently returning , I had decided to take my family to Kashmir
for the summer holidays ,forsaking the reliable allure of a Greek island in
order to enjoy what is still one of the most beautiful places in the world,
with views of the Himalayan mountains reflected in the lakes , fresh air and –
I hoped –tranquility. Lest Kashmir proved too peaceful , my teenage children –olivia
, Anthony and Alexandra – had packed quantities of books , travel chess and
playing cards
Question before our departure ranged from the wishful to the practical .Would
it be possible to swim (and if so , where)? Would our mobile phone work? Could
we access the internet? Most importantly, would we be safe?
Three years ago , when I last visited the Kashmir valley to report on the
insurgency for the BBC , I would have answered “no” to all theses questions.
In 2002 , relations between India and Pakistan –which ,since independence in
1947 , has been occupying a third of the state ,as well as lending its
“diplomatic and moral” support to the separatist movement- had once more taken
a nose-dive. Troops were massing on the international border, travel between
India and the Pakistan has been suspended and there was a credible threat of
war in the valley, all internet facilities had been cut off and mobile phones
were regarded as suspect items, but as the peace process between India and
Pakistan has gathered momentum , the desire for peace in the valley has
intensified .In early April , a breakthrough occurred when a twice-monthly bus
services across the line of control dividing Pakistani- administered and
Indian administered Kashmir began to operate for local Kashmiri’s whose
families have been separated since 1947.And ,after the long years of violence
, during which an estimated 50,000 to 70,000 of their people died , Kashmir’s
are longing to return to the good old days , when thousand of visitors came to
the valley in order to escape from the heat of the plains , as they did in the
days of the Raj.
As one Kashmiri businessman said soon, after our arrival :” we want our valley
to be as the - Mogul emperor Jehangir once described it : Paradise on earth
:not what it has been for so many years –Hell on earth.”
The owners of the Houseboats on Srinagar’s Dal and Nigin Lake –kept in
readiness , but vacant during the insurgency-are already delighting in the
upsurge in bookings , which have given them the confidence to repaint and
refurbish .At the height of the troubles. only the shabby , but welcoming ,
Ahdoos Hotel in central Srinagar remained open, catering to visiting
journalist ; now there’s a choice of several places to stay.
Top of the deluxe list is the Grand Palace once the maharaja’s residence and
now an Intercontinental. And close to a sign Suggesting that no weapons should
be brought over the threshold , we found an indoor swimming pool, where –at a
price (£7 per hour per person)-non residents could swim. there is also the
Broadway hotel , whose management eagerly permitted us , as foreign non
–residents to use the open –air swimming pool (£1.25 per person all day) in
the hope of enticing us to check in.
We didn’t , even the children agreed that the Broadway wasn’t nearly as novel
as our houseboat , tucked away in a corner of Dal lake and moored permanently
alongside a private garden. Suitably named Firdoz-“Heaven “-our houseboat was
wood –paneled throughout , with chandeliers in the dining and Living rooms and
put the children in mind of a first –class cabin on the Titanic .the sounds of
the birds on the lake and the sight of the kingfisher searing for its prey
provided the proximity to nature that we , as city dwellers ,had come to find.
Dal lake , neglect throughout the insurgency , may still be weed –ridden in
places , but a fervent attempt is being made that have grown as entangled as
spaghetti. Thanks to a concerted effort among houseboat owners , the smaller
Nagin Lake is exceptionally clean.
“Our lake was almost gone , littered with dead animals and plastic bags,’
lamented Manzoor Wangnoo , owner of the Gurkha group of houseboats on Nagin.
Now the Lake even boats a swimming boat moored in the centre .Although the
long- standing problem of sewage from the houseboats has yet to be resolved ,
a new mild filtration plants was opened in 2004.Progress on sewage treatment
is inevitably slow. ”The problem .’ said wangnoo, “is lack of funds.
Srinagar turned out to be dotted with internet café offering acess at
competitive prices (50p per hour , sometime less), so the children did not
feel too cut off from outside world. As it happened , after a few visits,
chatting with their friends in their respective holidays locations , they gave
up , mobile phone for local and international calls were easily activated by
purchasing a local sim card , After dropping us ashore on the other side of
Dal lake , our boatman , who confessed that he had never learnt to read or
write , was even able to assure us confidently that , if we phoned him when we
had finished ours afternoon’s sightseeing , he would be at the appointed
rendezvous point to pick us up ,thanks to the mobile he kept hidden in the
folds of his shalwar kameez.
In terms of security , only one Indian woman looked disapprovingly at our
presence with three children in tow .”it’s dicey for foreigners , you know
,”she said. She was referring to 10 years ago , when six western tourist were
captured by militants in the Pahalgam valley , south-east of- Srinagar , famed
for its trekking and spectacular scenery :although one tourist escaped ,the
decapitated body of another was found soon afterwards by the roadside. The
remaining four, including two Britons, were never found and presumed dead.
But the women’s warning bore little relevance to the present. We felt in no
more danger than if we had been in Egypt, Bali or Spain, or had stayed in
London.
The curfew, which proscribed movement after dark during the height of the
insurgency ,has long been lifted and dinner out is once again a regular social
activity. several friends I’d made on previous visits invited us to their
homes to share a traditional Kashmir meals (rice ,Lentils, meat and
vegetables) ,sitting cross-legged on the floor. they didn’t say so , but I
felt that they were glad to see me for once on holiday with my family ,as
though my presence as a tourist endorsed what they longed to believe: life in
Kashmir was returning to normal,
In the daytime, in contrast to a decade ago , when shopkeepers stood waiting
in doorways , anxious to lure in customers to buy their handicrafts ,
Srinagar’s streets were teeming with people , rickshaws ,sumo, jeeps ,buses
and scooters, all making a cacophonous sound as familiar as any throughout
South Asia .The Moghal gardens overlooking dal Lake ,Lovingly designed by
Jehangir in the 17th century ,and left to lie barren throughout the troubles,
are now replanted with gaint dahlias and gladioli .Adults wander in the shade
of the trees and children play on the grass or paddle in the fountains
.Foreign tourists are still a rare sight , especially those with auburn hair
like our younger daughter, she quickly got used to requests to pose for the
cameras of locals.(sure ,fine,” she would reply , as she was was slotted into
a line of dark-haired local children. Outside Srinagar, Kashmiri’s fabled
attractions have endured. Both Gulmarg and the Pahalgam valley, which provide
visitors with spectacular views over the mountains, have been revitalized
.Pahalgam boasts a gawdy amusement park and trekking on foot or pony is no
longer considered hazardous .Gulmarg, known for its Golf courses and winter
Skiing in the foothill of the Himalayas, has a new cable car. In 2002, there
were 20,000 stoic Indian visitors; this year , there have been double that
number , and the season is not yet over.
But Kashmiri’s are still paying a price for the revival of their tourist
industry. Every day during our three-week stay , the newspapers reported
“encounters” throughout the valley: seven person killed in separate “
militancy related “ incidents …. Three killed and nine injured. explosive
device” went off near the house of a senior Political leader…In an attempt to
prevent such violence that would in turn deter tourists from visiting Kashmir
, the state remains heavily fortified.
Although there are signs all over the valley information local and visitors
alike that the police are “with U. for U. ever and always ,”the sight of so
many police officers and solidiers in public places still makes srinagar look
like a city under siege. the airport remains heavily guarded, with body
searches and luggage X –ray surpassing any at Heathrow. Sandbags on street
corners are menacingly surrounded by barbed wire, and soldiers stand with guns
at the ready at intervals along the roadside. There are checkpoints as you
enter and leave the city , with armed police peering into the car, “asking
abruptly ,”where are you from?” and demanding to see passports. On arrival in
the Kashmir valley, visitors are warned by a sign on the roadside that they
are entering a “High-security azone.”
Having seen Kashmir in worse times ,I was immune to the soldiers. But my
husband was dismayed , commenting as much on the wasteful utilization of
manpower (what use can one soldier be every 30yards?) as the unsightly
appearance of makeshift billets near beauty spots. The children, unused to
more than the random sight of a couple of policemen on London’s streets, felt
uncomfortable. Normally keen joggers, they did not want to run under the eye
of soldiers.
Pahalgam, which is also en route to the Hindu shrine at the caves of Amarnath
, is triply protected-by Kashmir’s border security force , the central reserve
policy force and Indian army. Before entering the resort area ,we had to get
out of our car and stand in line for yet more peremptory searches ,with abrupt
orders: “put bag here .you go there ,” which we all also found disconcerting ,
until one of our Kashmiri friends sensibly explained: “we have to be thankful
,it is for our security their English is bad and that is why they seem
brusque.”
The continuing Militancy and the Dominant Military presence explain why the
British government has been reluctant to lift its travel advisory against
visiting Jammu and Kashmir. as one Indian government official reminded us;”
Although things are better now in Kashmir, you are still holidaying in a war
zone.”
Five Journalists on FAM Tour to Kashmir
“AT NO TIME DID WE FEEL THREATENED UNDER THREAT OR UNCOMFORTABLE WHILST IN
KASHMIR”
Revealed a delegation comprising of five journalists who were on a FAM TOUR
to Kashmir hosted by The Jammu and Kashmir Deptt. Of Tourism – co hosted by
Indus Kashmir –Srinagar and Indus Tours & Travels-London
Last week saw the arrival of five distinguished UK Journalists and ski
experts at a local resort of Gulmarg .
Together with Srinagar Travel expert Irshad Khan of Indus Kashmir the team have
been investigating methods of increasing tourist numbers. Group spokesman
Malcolm Bassett Smith of the Trinity Mirror group of United Kingdom stated
“Gulmarg and Kashmir as a whole has a lot to offer visitors from Europe.
There are some things that need attention to meet the demands of the high
end international visitors, but foundations are in place“. Malcolm added
that “whilst one cannot forget the war with Pakistan warnings given on the
British website are extreme . At no time did we feel threatened or
uncomfortable whilst in Kashmir.”
The group would be revealing their experiences as well writing about Kashmir
in Leading UK newspapers .The group will also be producing reports in
support of greater Tourism investment from Europe and North America.
A further key player in arranging this visit was Yasin Zargar of Indus Tours
& Travels – London, Mr.Vivek Angra of India Tourism London.
The delegation comprised of, Mr. Malcolm Bassett-Smith, Ms Kathleen Edson,
Ms.Tamsin Elizabeth Murray-Leach, Mr. Alan Hinkes OBE & Mr. Mark Brigham.
Kashmir's pristine ski resorts lure thrill-seekers
While Kashmir remains a disputed area, the Indian side is attracting skiers to
the Himalayas. Tam Leach reports
Published: 18 March 2006
The "resort" of Gulmarg in Kashmir is not your average ski destination, even
ignoring the fact that the region is disputed territory, a 60-year-old sore
point between India and Pakistan. There's no point in comparing vertical-drop
statistics to decide whether it's the place for you: your ill-informed
imagination is almost certainly a more accurate guide. Yes, as of last year,
Gulmarg boasts the world's highest gondola, ascending to short-breath inducing
heights of 13,400ft (4,084m). But just by virtue of being in Kashmir you are
already far up in the Himalayas, the highest mountain range in the world, so
this should not come as a surprise.
Neither should the facilities. Or lack of. Those who have invested in
Gulmarg's shaky development, the locals crying out for tourists to return and
the good folk at Jammu and Kashmir Tourism might wish to believe that it comes
close to Vail or Val d'Isère. The brochures might promise "India's premier ski
resort" and the "finest, well-graded slopes in the world". But you are in
Indian- controlled Kashmir, and even if you know next-to-nothing about the
area beyond bloodshed and earthquakes, you should be able to grasp the
essential: if the rest of the region is so different from the West, why should
its skiing be any different?
What you get in Kashmir is almost nothing like the usual ski experience. And
that is precisely what makes it so incredible. That and the terrain, the
untouched powder and the lack of crowds.
Relations between India and Pakistan over Kashmir have been improving, even
though the dispute threatened to take the countries to nuclear war as recently
as 2002. A bus service across the divide began last spring; there are now
seven flights daily into the capital, Srinagar. Yet despite the security
cooperations, a solution looks unlikely any time soon, and the region remains
on the no-go travel list of most Western governments.
Still, tourists are beginning to ignore the warnings. Tourism is returning to
Kashmir, and to Gulmarg, with its attention-getting gondola, especially. In
December and January, 2,500 foreign skiiers visited Gulmarg. From Canada,
Australia and the UK; from Malaysia, Singapore and China.
The brochures say: "Gulmarg is well suited for learning skiing. It has some of
the best slopes for beginners and intermediate skiers, all serviced by ski and
chair lifts." Although it's true that the short, gentle slopes in the
Highlands Basin are swarming with impressively able Kashmiri and Indian
schoolchildren, the lifts are dodgy pomas, the grooming patchy at best, and
the beginner terrain little more exciting than a snow-covered golf course.
As for the gondola - well, from the mid-station at Kangdoori is one vaguely
groomed "run", essentially a rollercoaster of a cat-track that swoops and dips
down through the great pine forest. A fine homerun racetrack for the competent
skier or rider, it's no place for a beginner. Above Kangdoori, all is
ungroomed. Bowls, chutes and tree runs spill off the magnificent Apharwhat
ridge, all easily hikeable from the gondola's top station.
Mission Gulmarg is a group of volunteer ski patrollers from the West, spending
January to March in the resort to train Kashmiri guides in avalanche safety
and first aid. Whistler Blackcomb has donated equipment; the group dealt
successfully with two accidents requiring hospitalisation in the week of our
visit. But the information board at the bottom of the gondola is brutally
honest: "Many hidden and unmarked obstacles exist, including barbed-wire
fences, head-height cables, particularly either side of gondola and powerlines."
You don't have to be that technically skilled to ski here, particularly if you
can float above the powder on a snowboard. Mellow lines from the summit are as
abundant as the steeper pitches. But you do need to be competent off-piste.
And understand that despite the gondola, brochures and ski patrol, you are
essentially in the back-country.
A local guide is highly recommended. Top of the list are Yaseem and Hameed,
cousins who have been running the ski shop in Gulmarg since 1988. Lack of
funds, lack of customers and a fire have been no deterrent; it took Yaseem 15
years to save up for his first pair of skis. Now he has a steady stream of
Western visitors, who return each year and pay 600 rupees (£7.75) a night for
lodging in cottages, all meals and tea included.
Gulmarg is a relic from the days of the British Raj, a hill station with
different areas for Kashmiri guests and Western ones. Stepping into our hotel
was like walking into the Thirties, our every move shadowed by porters and
houseboys. Each day began with a knock on the door, a jug of tea and the sound
of a match as the bukhari (stove) was lit. Most people come here through a
Kashmiri travel agent, or hook up with the handful of Western agents based in
the area. Trips typically include transfers, tours and a couple of days on a
houseboat in Srinagar. With the Srinagar to Gulmarg road closed between 6pm
and 6am - and any other time that security forces see fit - it's not just the
skiing that requires a guide with local know-how.
Now: about the soldiers. It doesn't take long to grasp that, despite local
protestations, the FCO knows what it is talking about. Srinagar airport is
only a year from gaining international status, but it still feels like landing
at a military base, because that's what most of it is. From the moment that
you step off the plane, you're never further than a few hundred metres from an
Indian soldier.
This is not an exaggeration. On any road, in Srinagar, in the countryside, in
Gulmarg: soldiers. With guns. Lurking by the verge, rattling along in trucks:
soldiers. Hanging out, watching the kids, at the bottom, the middle, and the
top of the gondola: soldiers. And on the drive up through the forests to
Gulmarg: soldiers. Stopping the 4x4 every once in a while, checking that we
were just another group of weird Westerners, and not political insurgents.
In our hotel, next to one carefully typed sign with dining hours and another
noting that the Management Requests no Picnic Lunches, Dogs nor Children in
the Bar, is another: "Notice: Hotel Residents/Non-Residents Are Not Allowed To
Enter The Public Rooms With The Weapons."
No Western tourists in Kashmir have been affected by "the turmoil", as locals
call it, since the infamous kidnapping of six hikers in 1995, though the FCO
posts a list of recent militant attacks involving civilians. Separatist
outfits such as the Jammu and Kashmir Liberation Front have stated that
tourists are both welcome and necessary, for local economics and to raise
awareness of the "plight" of Kashmiris. There appears to be a growing
consensus that tourism can do more to stabilise a region than international
diplomacy.
And Gulmarg is quietly removed from the troubles. There's no place for
militants to hide, even if they weren't put off by the sandbags and barbed
wire. Do the Westerners here feel unsafe? The answer is a unanimous no.
Uneasy, perhaps, at times - but more out of sympathy for the Kashmiris.
I want to go back to Gulmarg for selfish reasons: for the powder, for the
starry Himalayan skies, for the sensation of skiing close to the top of the
world. But I mostly want to go back to Gulmarg to drink spiced kahwa tea with
Yaseem and his snowboarding son Raja, because their passion for the mountains
shines dazzlingly bright. And because it's not often that as a tourist you
have the opportunity to make a positive impact out of a purely hedonistic
motive. It certainly doesn't happen in Val d'Isère.
TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
GETTING THERE
There are no direct flights between the UK and Srinagar; the best route is via
Delhi, served by BA (0870 850 9 850; www.ba.com ), Virgin Atlantic (08705
747747; www.virgin-atlantic.com ), Air India (020-8560 9996;
www.airindia.com ),
Jet Airways (020-8970 1500; www.jetairways.com ) and Air Sahara (00 91 11 2335
9801; www.airsahara.net ), from Heathrow. Qatar Airways (020-896 3636;
www.qatarairways.com ) flies from Heathrow and Manchester via Doha. From Delhi,
Srinagar can be reached on Indian Airlines (00 91 79 255 05109;
www.indian-airlines.nic.in ) and Jet Airways.
To reduce the impact on the environment, you can buy an "offset" from Climate
Care (01865 207 000; www.climatecare.org ). The environmental cost of a return
flight from London to Delhi is £14. The money is used to fund sustainable
energy projects.
STAYING THERE
Hotel Highlands Park, Gulmarg (00 91 1954 254430). Doubles from 3,500 Rupees
(£45), full board.
Grand Mumtaz, Srinagar (00 91 1942 450281). Doubles from 3,500 Rupees (£45),
room only.
SKIING THERE
A day pass on the gondola is 1,000Rp (£13).
RED TAPE & MORE INFORMATION
Britons require a visa to visit India. Contact the High Commission of India in
London (0906 844 4544, calls 60p/min; www.hcilondon.net ) or the consulate
general in Birmingham (www.cgibirmingham.org ) or Edinburgh (www.cgiedinburgh.org ).
The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (0845 850 2829;
www.fco.gov.uk ) states:
"We advise against all travel to or through rural areas of Jammu and Kashmir
(other than Ladakh) and all but essential travel by air to Srinagar.
TOURISM AND KASHMIR
The land which Nature has gifted with a great bounty
Kashmir, the emperor’s paradise has been a tourist pulling spot for centuries.
Those who have visited the place have left with some indelible impressions
about its beautiful surroundings. Let’s project it the way it deserves to be
projected on the world map,
writes A. Hameed
Tourism and Kashmir. Protect both as they are not mutually exclusive. Both
have an indissoluble relationship that has an age. Travelers came here for
centuries for the holy silence, heavenly tranquility, fragrance of its flowers
and to experience the most hospitable and helpful attitudes of the Kashmiris.
Tourism has also promoted commerce of world famous Kashmiri handicrafts and
other local products like wood carving items as the buyer has been reaching
the production centers and its local outlets compensating for Kashmir’s age
old out-sourcing opportunities ever-since it lost its traditional trade links
and routes. In the current scenario Tourism has been exposing criminal media
projections on Kashmir outside the valley, which is of greater significance in
the current state of our isolation.
World Tourism Day was celebrated on September 27, 2006 both in and outside
Kashmir with usual customary rituals, statements, publications of
advertisements, lectures, essay competitions and contests organized by
Ministry of tourism of Central and State governments. Each year the day passes
into the history without any assessment of successes or failures of this
crucial industry. Neither the shot-comings are enlisted, evaluated or focused
nor is the future course re-defined in view of the highly competitive world
market. However those concerned with the tourism industry in Kashmir
re-counted various impediments that stand still in the way of this foremost
but delicate industry, in this region. In face of a few unfortunate happenings
damaging the industry it seems important to re-define Tourism in Kashmir
rather it has necessitated rediscovering Kashmir at least from this point of
view. A leading personality from the tourism industry of Mumbai suggested that
there was need to refresh and highlight to the world and to the new generation
as to why visitors have been attracted to Kashmir, it being the first region
in this entire subcontinent to have caught attention of early visitors. It
will be thus important to trace the historical background of the tourism
industry in this Himalayan region, its attractions, the instinct urge of its
early visitors and their contributions.
Kashmir, it has been often said for centuries, is an indefinable beauty. Noted
travelers and historians felt it is Nature’s blessing to the universe but
failed to describe it appropriately as for them words proved inadequate to
define beauties of this precious land, its mountains and valleys. Yet, for
ages human endeavor has invested efforts to interact with Kashmir’s beauty,
explore it and describe and highlight it to the outside world. Almost all
explorers with their rich experience and knowledge could not mention any place
or spot in the world that was comparable with this beautiful land which
according to many historians and geologists was a ‘bottom-land’ in prehistoric
times.
Kashmir has been often described as the Switzerland of Asia. However, in
actual terms the main valleys of Switzerland are like the sideways of Kashmir.
Talking of purple hills, dancing seas and clear blue sky of Greece,
Young-husband, who had seen both countries, comments “Kashmir has the same
blue sky and brilliant sunshine, but its purple hills are on a far grander
scale, and if it has no sea, it has lakes and rivers, and still more
impressive snowy mountains.
It has, too, greater variety of natural scenery, of field and forest, of
rugged mountains and open valleys.” To the Mughuls Kashmir was known as “the
terrestrial paradise.” Noted travelers and writers which include G.T.Vigne (
in a publication released in London in 1842) regard Kashmir as one of the most
blessed spots upon the earth.
Undoubtedly, Kashmir is the world’s most fascinating experience offering
variety in climate and landscape. The valley is surrounded by high peaks,
diverse terrains and lush green forests all around standing as a chain with no
parallel in the world and these lap glaciers, pastures and high altitude lakes
offering amazing trekking opportunities and far behind these formations the
ice clad summits provide a splendid view. Each spot in the valley plains or up
on the highlands excels the other and every small elevation unfolds a new
natural set-up bringing altogether new phase of climate and atmosphere. The
Valley is quite different in each season. It is like a garden in summer and
golden in autumn. Winter makes Kashmir yet another world. It is a romantic
experience to travel to Kashmir in spring when snow over the slopes of
Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg still appears fresh while flowers appear in
abundance in the Valley plains. Certainly, it is an all season affair in
Kashmir.
It is not as cold in Kashmir as might be expected at such an altitude, the
reason being that the chain of mountains all around save the valley from the
cold blasts of the north and also the scorching winds from the south. Nature
has put the shield of mountains also to save Kashmir from the monsoon
miseries. There are no hurricanes in Kashmir. A strong wind that may cause
some disturbance in the atmosphere soon turns into a gentle breeze. The lakes,
rivers, streams and springs of Kashmir have caught attention of nature lovers
for centuries. Similarly, trekkers have incredible experience of the beauty of
its high altitude lakes, each altitude unfolding yet another terrain of
mountains for the adventurer. They always felt that the cleavage between two
mountains in Kashmir is un-paralleled, with bottom lines of each mountain
serving as wide concourse. The confluence of different cultures has been at
its best, when nomads of Kashmir with their unique culture have attracted full
attention of trekkers from different countries on the high mountain ranges.
The trekkers all over the world often share their experiences in Kashmir
throughout their life time, as it is said the climbing friendship lasts long.
They feel entertained and inspired while recounting their memorable times that
they have spent in Kashmir, even after decades.
Different writers have described Kashmir differently in their best possible
way. Yet most of them felt it was beyond description in the most appropriate
terms and distinguished travelers and writers have admitted in-adequacy of
words to define beauties of Kashmir. I have myself spent thirty-six precious
years of my life, traversing all areas in and around Kashmir during my long
official travel requirements (traveling was my job indeed). Much beyond the
nature of my duty I always looked around, chased, but failed to catch words (
to define beauties of Kashmir) in my long journey and intimate gaze of each
dimension of this superb land. Thus, while we still feel bankrupt in tracing
words to define this land, for me it was quite amazing to learn how the
greatest saint of Kashmir, Sheikh Nur-ud-Din Reshi has commented on the beauty
of Kashmir in the following linguistics, more than 600 years ago:
“Every minute that I spend here
(at one of his usual and favourite look-out)
will be deducted from my stay in heaven”
This imponderable judgment on the description of the beauty of Kashmir, by the
saint of saints, sounds alarmingly natural. It seems perfectly amenable and
sound and with this finding (during my study on Sheikh-ul-Alam) ended my
journey of discovery of the most exciting definition on the beauty of Kashmir.
It appears a super-natural definition that does not require any comment or
explanation.
Hospitality of Kashmir has been another matter of great interest among the
travelers, which is indeed Kashmir’s precious holding even today. They have
always been hospitable and forthcoming. Their specific art or act of welcoming
or greeting visitors has been polite and friendly. The very first interaction
between a native and a visitor has been always monumentally pleasant and
impressive. Their way of wishing a guest with usual ‘Salam-sahib’ has been
known much earlier in the Western countries than the ‘Sayonara’—the Japanese
goodbye. Of Kashmiris it is said, “when asked for assistance, they leave their
occupation to guide you to their best honesty.” Thus, much investigative is
the description of Pandit Brij Narayan Chakbast Lakhnawi, who says, “How
exceedingly hospitable is the land of Kashmir. Even the wayside stones offered
me water to drink.”
To quote him exactly:
“Zarra Zarra hai mere Kashmir ka mehman nawaz
Rah mein pather ke tukdun ne diya pani mujee”
Visitors have come here both during Kashmir’s occupation by outside rulers or
during their self- rule, during peace and war and also during good weather,
rough weather or sub-zero temperature. Kashmir has been host to many distinguished saints, historians, travelers, writers and missionaries. It is
interesting to note that Kashmir, in ancient times, was more intimately known
in Europe and America than in many Asian nations. Baron Hugel says that the
first authentic information concerning Kashmir which appears to have reached
Europe was through the Portuguese, while propagating Christianity. The next
noted traveler who acquainted the West with Kashmir is Francis Bernier, who
had left France in 1654 when twenty-five, in his desire to see the world.
Father Desideri, a Jesuit was the other important visitor to Kashmir whose
observations on Kashmir are contained in a letter from Lhassa in 1716. Earlier
several other members of the Organization of the Society of Jesus have come to
Kashmir ever-since the Society started functioning in 1534 and they revealed
to the Western world about existence of the God’s own land up in the
Himalayas.
Numerous travelers and writers have played a great role in introducing Kashmir
to outside world as a heavenly and peaceful land. Some visitors though came
for travel and adventure worked on culture, art and literature of Kashmir.
Even Kashmir’s folk-tales and proverbs drew their attention and their
contribution to study and compile the Kashmiri folk-tales has been
significant. They felt that Kashmir is a land of proverbs. Some of the
proverbs have been collected and arranged by Rev. J. Hinton Knowles. It has
been known in France and England (about 150 years ago) that some professional
reciters in Kashmir made their living by telling these tales and Sir George
states that Kashmiris have been reciting ( with astonishing verbal accuracy )
stories that have been handed down to them by their predecessors containing
words that have fallen out of use, and with the meaning of which they are now
unacquainted. Sir Aurel Stein has made a collection of such tales as dictated
by Hatim Tilawyn of Panzil, a professional story-teller of the Sind Valley in
Kashmir. This collection was translated by Sir George Grierson and was
published by John Murray in 1923 under the title of Hatim’s Tales. Revd.
Knowles has also written Folk-Tales of Kashmir.
The Kashmiri riddles and folklores have greatly amused and attracted the
foreigners as these helped them in their research in tracing the life and
life-style of Kashmiris in ancient times. Noted visitors who made Kashmir
known abroad more intimately are George Forester, William Moorcroft, G.T.Vinge,
Baron Eric von Shonberg, Francis Bernier etc. These visitors have played a
great role in highlighting Kashmir and its beauties to the world. The
contributions made by other travelers and writers also deserve appreciation as
their works have been of great significance and contributory in nature as
these have helped in promoting Kashmir as a potential tourist destination.
Some of these writers and their works which merit attention are: Petrocokino,
A ( Three weeks in a Houseboat – London 1920 ), Pirie P . ( Kashmir, the land
of Streams and Solitudes—London 1908), Schonberg, The Baron Erich Von. (
Travels in India and Kashmir—London 1853 ), Mrs. Hervey ( Adventures of a Lady
in Tibet, China and Kashmir—London 1854), Dela Mare, Walter ( The Romantic
East and Burma, Assam and Kashmir—London 1906), De Bourbel ( Routes in Jammu
and Kashmir—Calcutta 1897), Darrah, H. Z ( Sport in the Highlands of Kashmir
–London 1898), Coventry, B.O ( Wild Flowers of Kashmir-1923), Denys, F . Ward
( Our Summer in the Vale of Kashmir—Washington D.C 1915). Dr. Sachchidanand
Sinha ( Kashmir “ The Playground of Asia—Allahabad 1942), Mrs. C.M.Villiers (
Garden of Great Mughals—London 1913) and Dr. W. Wakefield ( The Happy
Valley—London 1879).
So popular became Kashmir in Europe that Thomas Moore (1779AC—1852) poet and
musician made fortunes by his work “ Lalla Rukh “ which was published in 1817.
No poem has ever had greater popularity than Lalla Rukh for it has been
translated into all European and most Eastern languages. Many players composed
operas based on parts of Lalla Rukh in Europe. Moore, who was an Irish, had
left for England in 1799. His publishers advanced him money which relieved him
of his debts and Moore’s fame speedily became European as Lalla Rukh was used
in shows in London and Paris. These projections aroused intense interest and
desire for people to visit the mainland Kashmir.
Thus begins Thomas Moore:
“ Who has not heard of the Vale of Cashmere,
with its roses the brightest that earth ever gave,
Here the music of prayer from a minaret swells.
The Valley holds its feast of roses……………”
Sri Sri Swami Sri Yukteswar Giri traveled all the way from Calcutta in 1920’s,
with his noted disciple Paramahansa Yogananda the great yogi, in the company
of four other disciples, to visit Kashmir. They visited Shankar Acharya temple
and all Mughal gardens at Srinagar. At Gulmarg they ventured onto the steep
Khilanmarg where they had a breath-taking view of snow-capped Himalayas. They
remarked Kashmir is mountain-crowned, lake-garlanded, and flower-shod and that
it possesses some of the charms of the Swiss Alps and of Loch Lomond in
Scotland, and of the exquisite English lakes. Yogananda states Kashmir in many
ways reminds of the rugged grandeur of Alaska and of Pike’s Peak near Denver.
It will be interesting to know that Swami Sri Yukteswar who was greatly
influenced by the tranquility and peace in Kashmir that he wished to leave
this earth while in Kashmir. His associates however persuaded him for travel
back to Calcutta.
Kashmiri owe too much to these early travelers and writers who made them and
their civilization known outside the land-locked region of Kashmir
particularly when Kashmiris had lived in isolation for centuries together.
They visited ancient Kashmir traversing most difficult terrains in their
spirit to discover the Nature. The Europeans in particular took pains to
gather knowledge of the minutest aspects of the Kashmir’s art, culture,
customs and literature. They studied crafts made in Kashmir and spend time
sitting with the craftsmen making them more innovative by giving them creative
ideas. They propagated crafts in their own homelands which helped Kashmir’s
economy. Thus the arts and crafts of Kashmir became famous in Europe and
America and the shawls of Kashmir in particular became a fashionable item in
England in seventeenth century. It became an essential item of dress in
England where the women used these to be considered as well dressed. It became
a pride possession for an elegant wardrobe for all those who could afford,
which today is true about modern citizen of India. Similarly, the original
jewelry of Kashmir which was unique in design and very minutely worked
attracted women from outside Kashmir. The Kashmiri handicrafts became
important articles for the art galleries in many countries. For aristocratic
families it became a craze to decorate their drawing rooms with items
manufactured in Kashmir. Thus, while Kashmiris had no means and resources to
export delicately manufactured products, the travelers to Kashmir helped
advertising these products abroad. Today Kashmir is renowned throughout the
world for its handicrafts thanks to the painstaking efforts of these early
visitors.
Francis Bernier deserves a special mention for his enormous contribution to
Kashmir. While in India he joined the royal caravan of Emperor Aurangzeb when
it left Delhi in 1665 on its long arduous trek to the valley of Kashmir.
During his stay in Kashmir, Bernier undertook in-depth study of Kashmiri art
and culture, people’s traditions, way of life and customs. He thus observes “
Kashmiris are celebrated for wit and considered much more intelligent and
ingenious than the Indians, and that, “ in poetry and the sciences they are
not inferior to Persians.” He felt that Kashmiris have always been good at
inventing things and have been solving their problems in their own way. The
invention of ‘kangri’, the fire pot used in extreme winter conditions to warm
themselves ( which is in use even today ) and the grass woven ‘pulhor’ a foot
wear used as a chapel over the snow were some thrilling examples which
attracted Bernier. He and other noted travelers have appreciated these
ingenious attitudes of the Kashmiris, who felt that ideas to deal with life’s
challenges have not been imported by them. Bernier appears to have been
particularly struck by the industrious skills of Kashmir craftsmen and notes
that the workmanship and beauty of their manufactured articles was remarkable
and that these were bound to become most popular in every part of India.
As the demand for Kashmiri handicrafts increased manifold due to the efforts
of these travellers a special commercial agent had been appointed from Paris,
who resided in Srinagar and supervised the purchase and export of Kashmiri
shawls and other handicraft items to France. The technique of manufacturing a
Kani Shawl in Kashmir had no parallel in the world and this attracted
exemplary attention more particularly in France. However shawl industry in
Kashmir received its death-blow when war broke out between Germany and France
in 1870. The shawl-baf (shawl weaver) watched with excitement and interest the
fate of France in the war, and burst into tears and loud lamentations when the
news of Germany’s victories reached him. The handicrafts industry in Kashmir
received another set back on account of the famine in 1878 and 1879. Thus a
number of shawl-weavers left Kashmir for Lahore, Amritsar, Ludhiana etc where
they carried with the trade. The Kashmiri craftsmen and trader looked for
other options and discovered that Calcutta could be far better choice for them
to promote their trade. Having no other capable officer in his administration
Maharaja Gulab Singh with a view to revive the dieing silk industry of
Kashmir, first entrusted silk production to his Chief Physician Hakim Aziz and
latter the
Maharaja placed the industry under his Chief Justice, Babu Nilambar Mukherjee.
Under his management sericulture in Kashmir improved and developed. As Bengal
had a flourishing silk industry at that time Nilambar Babu, who himself hailed
from Bengal took personal interest in promoting this industry after its set
back. He engaged Bengalis trained at Murshidabad to revive the industry in
Kashmir. Babu Nilambar made significant contribution in social uplifting of
the artisans in Kashmir. Thus tourism, which survived here during frequent
floods and famines, during wars and aggressions and during long tenure of
oppressions, made significant contribution to Kashmir.
The golden era of tourism development began in Kashmir in the eighteenth
century when British made Gulmarg and Srinagar their favourite destination. A
British national namely H. Nedo opened up first hotels of higher standards one
each at Srinagar and Gulmarg. Tourism, in Kashmir collapsed for the first time
with the partition of India in 1947 with the closure of the Muzfarabad-
Srinagar route, which has now been connected with the cross border bus
service. It started reviving in 1970’s but suffered hick-ups now and then due
to political uncertainties in the State. As and when peace prevailed though
momentarily tourism thrived in Kashmir excitingly when foreign tourists also
arrived in large numbers. Like the English lot many Bengalies opened up hotels
at Srinagar as travelers from West Bengal have specific requirements
particularly of boarding. Tourism however failed indefinitely at the beginning
of the last decade of the previous century with the mass uprising in Kashmir.
It did revive about fifteen years later, not by itself but when some people
connected with the industry played a lead role in encouraging prospective
visitors. The declaration of ceasefire by India and Pakistan, confidence
building measures launched by the two countries and of course various militant
organizations supporting tourism also helped in its revival.
The industry is once again at the crossroads following attacks on the tourists
on July 11, 2006, a development which took place for the fist time in the
history of Kashmir, to the disliking of the entire Kashmiri nation. Militant
organizations denied their hand in the most unfortunate development. Tourists
got scared though momentarily. The industry players are regrouping to find out
how to fully revive the industry once again and the task this time does not
seem to be an uphill task as tourists continue to visit the valley currently
though in small numbers. It is encouraging to find that travelers from West
Bengal, Mumbai and Gujrat are taking the lead again. Earlier there was an
adverse effect due to the controversy connected with Sh. Amarnath Yatra, as
well.
When the tourism revived after a period of fifteen years it was observed that
travelers preferred to come to Kashmir in groups and having felt encouraged
later started coming individually. Things became different gradually when
those who dared first, encouraged others to come to Kashmir independently. The
spread of word across various States thus made it to the peak. It was an
evolution by itself, by good deeds and enormous traditional courtesy of the
natives. It was amazing to see that the tourists were so much overwhelmed that
it looked like Kashmir has been lately re-discovered. A different phenomenon
was witnessed as large number of tourists visited Kashmir during winter
period. During the winter season 2004-05 tourists visited Kashmir till early
January and resumed arriving from first week of April 2005 with a small break
in winter and the break was probably due to the snow storm causing road
blockades over Jammu-Srinagar highway. But there was a regular flow of
tourists during the winter season of 2005-06. The trend to visit Kashmir in
winter also has been growing. It was quite interesting to find that
individuals, young and old couples and small families started traveling to
Kashmir all by themselves unlike 2003 and 2004 when they preferred to be in
groups. All indications pointed to a sharp growth of tourism making Kashmir
the ultimate resort for travel and leisure.
The urge to visit Kashmir at least once in a lifetime has been always there.
This urge had been growing among people across the plains of India probably as
Kashmir remained in news in the frontline for one reason or the other during
the past almost two decades. As I have a small engagement related to the
industry after my retirement I have felt that for some it has been a dream to
visit Kashmir, irrespective of their advanced age or ill health. A few
instances are worth mentioning. A tourist from Kolkata namely Mr M.L.Chanda a
serious cancer patient visited the valley at the end of 2004 accompanied by
his wife and during the stay the patient turned quite bad leaving no hope for
his survival. He was given full medical support and survived the massive
attack and was lucky enough to reach his home in Kolkata, before his ultimate
death. Once while he had recovered and liked to talk to me about his life and
on asking as to why did he take the risk of visiting Kashmir in such bad
health, the answer was very amazing. Said he, “ during my long carrier of
service I had not been able to take my wife ( Mrs Rita Chanda) any where
excepting for a brief visit to Darjeeling and I had promised her a vacation in
Kashmir and I feel happy to find that I have been able to do so before my
death.” During his stay, despite his worst condition, while we gave him full
attention and company, he would like his wife to see all places in Kashmir
with the group they were traveling. We facilitated the couple’s air travel to
Kolkata (on the explicit advice of a Doctor) and at the time of their
departure Mr Chanda whispered in my ear “ Kashmir has in turn fulfilled my
another last wish to once fly in an airplane with Rita.”
One Mr B.N.Chadra again from Kolkata, accompanied by his wife and little
daughter Ishita, visited Kashmir in May this year. This little family
attracted my attention due to unusual irritations they exhibited about their
engagements in the valley. While having a chat with me Mr Chandra revealed
that his 21 year young son had died in an accident and thus the little hapless
family was always in a disarray. I could do little to console the family. Mr
Chandra was to retire later this year and hence always remained engaged in his
thoughts and often absent minded. The most important facet is that this
traveler confided with me that the hapless family decided to go to Kashmir
only to find their lost child on the “mountains of this God’s own
land….Kashmir.” Probably there was no sole in his native land who could
console and support this fate bitten family and despite his miserable health
would like to come back one day, as he said that interaction with average and
ordinary Kashmiri healed him. Another responsible duty came from Ahmedabad
quite recently. This time a travel agent asking me to care for one Mr Romesh
Mistry a patient requiring dialyses every third day who was accompanied by his
wife, brother and a technician from Urology Department of Nadiad. A dialysis
was done at Delhi before arrival and the mission was to see Gulmarg and few
selected places in Srinagar during the short visit as the next dialysis was
due at Jaipur which his Doctor had already tied up. This young patient of 45
years had a desire to have a glimpse of Kashmir valley in his life time,
despite his fast deteriorating health condition. These developments have left
lasting impressions on my mind and one would wish that all conflicts in this
world would get resolved so that this universe would become a much better
place to live in.
As the tourism revived in 2003 it was felt that tourists that arrived here
expressed their apprehensions about their safety. Most tourists carried
frightened looks, with deep wrinkles spreading on their foreheads. It looked
as if an unwilling person had arrived to stay and move around. But soon, upon
their arrival with a small adventure be it a leisurely stroll down the
Boulevard to capture full view of the splendid and picturesque Dal Lake and on
the way interacting with the locals, things became smartly reverse. The
tourists usually felt overwhelmed with their interaction with local people,
either connected with the travel trade or not. They are never tiered of
appreciating hospitable attitude of the people and most of the time expressed
concern over media projections. It is felt that the criminal acts of media
(electronic media in particular ) have maligned the Kashmiri’s overall image
which has over the years projected the Kashmiri as a violent community. The
media, it appears has tarnished their image both in India and abroad as they
stand projected as a violent community. It is felt that the growth of tourism
that was witnessed in recent times had exposed the adverse media projections
on Kashmir and Kashmiris ( across the Indian States and the world) in the last
17 years. Most of the tourists felt that the dramatic situations created by
the electronic media has brutally demolished the Kashmiri out-look and
character. Others thought the electronic media has assumed the role of a
detective or investigating agency and at all times continue pronouncing their
own conclusions and judgment over most sensitive issues and incidents. Some
felt that it looked like a willful effort to dramatize various incidents or
situations, in relation to Kashmir. Once the tourist arrivals reached its peak
zenith, the media again over-played and projected the inflow of travelers to
Kashmir as normalcy returning to Kashmir. Unfortunately, the only Doordarshan
Kashmiri T.V.Channel is operational from outside the State and has remained
hostage to vested interests. It has been often suggested to make it fully
functional deservedly at Srinagar and not utilized as a propaganda forum to
create bad blood and instead devoted exclusively to promote Kashmir as a
tourist destination. In fact the channel could be used as a Discovery Channel
as we have too much to highlight on Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh. The channel
could be utilized fully to exploit nature, culture, monuments, heritage
centers, museums, mountaineering, trekking and other riches.
Tarnishing the Kashmiri image is one of the core irritant factor as for as
Kashmiri’s feelings are concerned and this deserves to be redressed
appropriately as these irritants have and can lead to dangerous situations. In
the present day world incidents do occur all over the world and Tourism still
survives and in fact flourishes. Horrible and frightening incidents happen in
almost all parts of the world today that includes India. Terrible incidents
take place in the North-East, Andhra Pradesh, U.P, Bihar, Chhatisgard etc.
Nexalites blow-up buses and slaughter scores of innocent tribals and the news
is brushed aside as the naxalism menace. Foreign tourists have become victims
of rape in the proud city of New Delhi. In Rajasthan, the Government had to
take steps to protect tourists especially foreign tourists from organized
gangs, one of these better known as “ Lapka” gang, which had been operative in
Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Udaipur, Mount Abu and Pushkar.
As against all this the tourists visiting Kashmir more often return quite
satisfied. They seem to be only unhappy over media propaganda outside Kashmir.
The foreigners ( including from Israel ) who came here feel that the world has
been grossly misguided about the wonderful land of Kashmir. As the electronic
media in particular is hypercritical about Kashmir particularly with its
disinformation campaign this deserves to be countered. However, as Kashmiri
lack facilities to do so in the present scenario, it is important to realize
how important tourism could be as in the present conditions tourism alone
could counter media’s adverse projections. Thus it is felt that revival of
tourism is of greater importance today for the Kashmiri’s overall image than
the economic benefit that is derived from the trade. Thus all those connected
with the trade will have to frame their own code of conduct, rather a self
made Trader’s Charter incorporating elements of fairness, honest dealings,
ethnic hospitality tips and matters that would make Kashmir an epicenter of
high values.
It would be unjust not to speak about our friends, patrons and the age old
Nature lovers of West Bengal whose sentiments had been hurt in July this year
in Kashmir. True to their nature an average Bengali make savings over the year
for the outing during holidays and they follow their program very religiously.
Kashmiris mourned the tragic death of their guests from West Bengal as they
have been mourning loss of lives of over one lakh Kashmiris who died in this
unfortunate conflict since 1990. They have not recovered from the terrific
shock even now. They feel that their relations are very old as after the
market for Kashmiri shawl was lost in western countries the once flourishing
trade in shawls was still kept up by the Bengali’s passion for the shawl. Many
Kashmiris shifted to Kolkata more than hundred years ago and established their
business there and even today hundreds of Kashmiris shift to West Bengal
during winter months maintaining most cordial relations. It is well known in
Kashmir that the political system in West
Bengal always supported well being of Kashmir and Kashmiris in as much as they
have always supported the provision of special status of Kashmir in the Indian
constitution and West Bengal has been the only State where Kashmiris were not
harmed or harassed post 1990. Bengalis are the only people from outside Jammu
and Kashmir who have taken Hotels on lease at Srinagar which are fully
operational even today.
Many things are common among Bengalies and Kashmiris. Both are rice eaters and
after Bengal, Kashmir had the next highest percentage area of land under rice
cultivation from earliest times. Both are emotional people and both show a
slavish devotion to their age old customs. Their languages are sweet and both
love music. Interestingly both speak loudly, at times making a noise for
nothing. Both communities have produced great people. Kashmiris have deep
reverence for Tagore and the only auditorium at Srinagar is named as Tagore
Hall. Kashmiris take pains to study contributions made by Mother Teresa to the
suffering people. Learned people in Bengal have enough knowledge about great
saints of Kashmir and that of the great Kashmiri poetess Lalla Arifa and Habba
Khatun.
It is time for introspection. A renewed effort has to be made, as the attack
on tourists (who were never touched before) has hijacked fortunes to a
neighboring State, as before. Unfortunately the much publicized Tourism
Alliance has failed to deliver. The combined effort and intelligence of all
concerned people must be interlocked. The situation demands cohesion of all
the players. Let us help to learn, heal and recover from the terrible
experiences. That will allow us to remain reasonably optimistic. If we though,
lack in sensibility and become hostage to disillusionment we shall deserve
illustrative and appropriate verses to re-define us.
The world at large has not been, of late, an absolutely comfortable place to
live in. Yet let us hope the worst thing will not happen in every situation.
We feel embarrassed as our reputation has been harmed. But let us not hide our
good feelings or intentions. We should not be un-willing to do something. Let
us continue to be enthusiastic and epitomize Kashmir, as the most favourite
destination once again. Taking one more initiative let us not shy away to
invite and induce tourists to visit the God’s own land ‘Kashmir’, they desire
to see at least once in a life time. Let us hope and expect that good things
will happen. Tourism must be promoted and protected as this will defend us
from continuous media’s tirade.
(Author is Managing Director, JandK State Transport Corporation. He can be
mailed at ahameed47@rediffmail.com
)
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